Установка маховика FIDANZA, трудности и подводные камни.

[FET]

ну они все меньше стоковых, и мой тоже, и на 3КГТ - у Андреса пришлось ремень поменять, не натягивался

[Karabas]

Хмм, а у меня все стало на стоковое /задумался/

[extrimer]

Обновил первое сообщение взвешиванием стокового шкива.
2 Марат - а у вас со Стасом не осталось таких же шкивов? Интересно всетаки сколько они весят в граммах

[FET]

до 1кг. 100%... мой где-то грамм 600 весил

[Marat_GTi]

Я же писал немного повыше, что от 450 до 650 гр.

В зависимости от размера и производителя.
В основном они все такие как у тебя, т.е. немного меньше по диаметру чем оригинал у них вес 550-650, но бывают и очень маленькие вот те как раз с весом 450-550.

[kasem]

Трудности при установке данного маховика не наблюдал (и с болтами все нормально).
Единственная проблемка в сцепление, демпфер диска на нейтралке бет об корзину.

PS: g1 1991 FWD Turbo (N/T). Коробка турбовая, Маховик Fidanza, сцепление ACT “MaXX Xtreme” корзина, диск “Performance Organic Street Disc”,


А по поводу шкива без керамического демпфера:

Letter from Dave Buschur to Talon Digest Sept. 1998

Hello, I am not starting a debate again. As a matter of fact, if you have some questions send me a private e-mail. I do have some facts though. First let me say, yes, I have been running an Unorthodox underdrive pulley for about a year. I have had no problems that I can blame on the pulley, they are nice and they are cheap. If they do pick up 10hp like Turbo Magazine says they do then they are a bargain. Now to my point. As alot of you know I have been working with a company to have some custom dampers done with the underdrive built into them. They are finally done and I have done the final testing. We have had the first unit on and off the AWD a few times to get results back and the final settings have been made. After looking at the unit and getting the feedback from the shop that is building the units for us there is ABSOLUTELY NO doubt that these cars, just as we thought, have to have the damper on them. I have had some unusual bearing wear for the last year or so. The more I learn about dampers the more I understand that the problem was 99% related to the fact I have not been running one. We did end up keeping the underdrive unit in the damper too. So there is less drag and we get a superior damper compared to the stock unit. Now, everyone that has ever bought a performance part thinks it works, why? Well you just spent your hard earned money on it. I have done the same thing in the past I am sure. I am very skeptical nowadays. Well I took the damper off the AWD Sunday and put it on the RWD. Since it is the only one I have so far I wanted to swap it. The difference? Holy $h!t. The RWD engine is mounted to solid aluminum plates which are bolted directly to the frame of the car. The car vibrates so hard it goes up your spine, it also vibrates enough to readjust the rearview mirror just revving the engine. I cannot believe it but this is all but gone. I mean you can still feel the engine has some vibration, it has to mounted this way, but the majority of it is gone. I am going to be really curious next time we pull this engine down to see what the bearing look like. I have 10 more being shipped to me ASAP, they are built, the shop and I are just working out pricing. The first 7 are sold. This is the list of the guys first names (for privacy), you guys will know who you are, if you have changed your minds please contact me. I have three more available.


(stolen from the Stealth Zone.)
The Under Drive Pulley debate.

First off a few disclaimers: This page deals ONLY with the 3000GT/Stealth cars and Unorthodox Racing's under drive pulleys. I welcome differing opinions and will post anyone comments if they request. My only motivation for posting this is to give a heads-up to all people considering doing this mod. It seems that every month there is another person asking about the UDP's on the message board or starnet list and they need to have a clear view of the facts. My opinion is also included in this page.... take it for what it is worth. I don't want to tell anyone what to do with their car, just present the facts so they can decide for themselves.

Definitions used in this discussion:

Torsional vibration: Every time a cylinder fires, the connecting rod hammers the crankshaft, making it twist as well as spin. After every twist, there's a rebound as the crank unwinds. This twist/rebound cycle is known as torsional vibration and if not controlled, it will result in rapid bearing and crank journal wear and can lead to a broken crankshaft. ( Source: Fluidampr's tech pages. )

Harmonic balancer: The harmonic balancer, or vibration damper, is a device connected to the crankshaft to lessen the torsional vibration. When the cylinders fire, power gets transmitted through the crankshaft. The front of the crankshaft takes the brunt of this power, so it often moves before the rear of the crankshaft. This causes a twisting motion. Then, when the power is removed from the front, the halfway twisted shaft unwinds and snaps back in the opposite direction. Although this unwinding process is quite small, it causes "torsional vibration." To prevent this vibration, a harmonic balancer is attached to the front part of the crankshaft that's causing all the trouble. The balancer is made of two pieces connected by rubber plugs, spring loaded friction discs, or both.
When the power from the cylinder hits the front of the crankshaft, it tries to twist the heavy part of the damper, but ends up twisting the rubber or discs connecting the two parts of the damper. The front of the crank can't speed up as much with the damper attached; the force is used to twist the rubber and speed up the damper wheel. This keeps the crankshaft operation calm.
( Source: AutoInsight training program )

"To sum it up:

If you want to risk bearing failure or worse yet crank failure run a UDP on your car. I am not saying it will happen next week, or even next year but it will happen. In my opinion the extra 5-10 HP is not worth it. (note these numbers are guess's since no conclusive dyno results have been posted) Just the idea of removing something which is designed to provide protection to your engine is fundamentally wrong. Engine builders across the country will agree with me on that one. With other mods we do, it is a calculated risk and with proper care we can measure and control the power we add. With UDP's we have no way of measuring what is going on and that scares me. Take my opinion for what it is worth and good luck."

[Karabas]

На Г2 после установки алюминевого шкива рекомендуется устанавливать следующие ремни:
Alternator & Water Pump: use 38 7/8", Air Conditioning: 37 1/8"
Думаю то же относится и к Г1 (я прав?)

[Karabas]

Подскажите оригинальный номер ремня Генератора по Мицубиси с параметром 38 7/8" или хотя бы сколько это в мм?

[AvaLANche]

38 7/8" = 987.425 мм