Вот, до кучи, по поводу тормозов только недавно переписывался с Wilwood.
1. На счет почему в 4-х поршневом ките колодка прилегает только сверху, а не по всей, рабочей поверхности диска 355мм, т.е. внизу остается 1,5см.
Concerning the 80% coverage of the rotor / pads: Function; With this 355mm brake upgrade it is our intention to provide exceptional brake performance at a reasonable price. After exhaustive research, this is the best match off the shelf rotor we can find for the application and it works exceptionally well. If we were to supply a caliper (if one were available) to use the whole swept surface of the rotor, the function of the kit would suffer and I’ll explain.
There are two important features of these rotors over the stock ones; the larger diameter increases brake “leverage” (actually torque) because of the larger radius…… And the mass of the rotor is better able to manage any heat generated. The effective rotor radius is the distance from the axle center to the center-of-pressure of the brake pad. If you use a narrow brake pad and place it at the outside diameter of the rotor you move the center of pressure further away from the axle and therefore increase the ‘effective’ radius of the rotor. I you were to use a caliper with a wider pad the effective radius would be shorter and therefore offer less brake effect.
То есть, если тупо поставить стандартные суппорта на больший диск через проставку - тормоза будут более информативней на малых скоростях, за счет рычага и меньше нагреваться за счет массы. Ну это, как-бы и так понятно.
2. На счет брать суппорта с пыльниками или без.
Vehicle manufacturers typically design their products around a minimum criteria list which almost never includes special materials for components such as caliper pistons. Many production style caliper pistons are therefore aluminum or other easily corrodible metal for obvious reasons, not least of which is cost. It is less expensive by far to make aluminum pistons and rubber boots than to make stainless steel pistons for example. A huge percentage of production car calipers HAVE to have dust boots or they may not last to the end of the warranty.
The best solution for safe and reliable high performance calipers is to eliminate the rubber boots, build pistons from good quality, non-corroding stainless steel and make sure the caliper bores are anodized. We have been supplying such calipers for high performance street and race use for over 20 years without complaint. Our experience has been that companies who do build aftermarket calipers with dust boots make an issue of this fact to justify the exorbitant cost of their products.
If we examine the dynamics of caliper function we see that the pistons actually, stay pretty well where they are and the brake dust coats that part which protrudes from the caliper body. A typical brake application cycle sees about 0.20 mm (1/5 mm) of travel per piston. There is about 3 or 4mm of piston bore outboard of the hydraulic "O" ring before the piston sees the outside atmosphere. In that area the clearance between the piston and bore is around 0.075mm. It takes a pretty small dust particle to travel all the way to the hydraulic O-ring and when it gets there it's typically too small to create any real havoc. So, you get dirt building up on the exposed part of the pistons and that's about it.
Problems develop when it's time to change pads and your production oriented brake technician simply presses the pistons back in with a clamp and shoves all that dirt into the cylinder past the seal. The "trick" is dowse the exposed piston with aerosol brake cleaner then scrub the piston protrusion with a stiff tooth brush (or kitchen Brillo Pad)and soapy solution and blow dry BEFORE you shove them back into the caliper...
The down side is that it takes and extra 30 minutes (on a bad day) to change pads which you may have to do every 50,000 km or so on a street driven vehicle. Amortized over a year or two that's not a big chunk of your life or your paycheck.
The upside is that a regular guy can afford to purchase a serious brake upgrade that works every bit as well as that $3500 Alcon or AP system he's been looking at. And if he really decides to drive all that horsepower he ‘shoehorned’ into the engine bay he won't be retiring early (as the competition may) because his dust boots are on fire....
То есть, колодки надо самому менять и чистить перед тем, как вдавливаешь поршень.
Это пишут продаваны, посмотрим потом как все будет выглядеть на практике. Весьма привлекательный кит за 1000$.
